Bail up

From August 2014 When the quiet is loud, the screaming comes as measured breaths. I mark time on a bed fit for two, lying in the dead calm eye of the swirling thoughts and actions outside. You would think this piece of writing is going down a depressing road, but Yosemite is a detour worth taking. On the first pitches of Stonequest, I find my breathing has a similar pace. From the ground, we look at the topo stored in my phone, 4 bolts for 200', runout friction an arms length from an edge that feels 200' at least when 20' from your last bolt. In climbing, the "r" that follows the grade of a climb refers to your head. Lead head. The macho climber postures with sexual references to the term in order to avoid casting lots for such labeled pitches. "r" is the part of the grade that…

(and how I plan to fix them) (And other things to do with a partner before heading up the wall) Fix it. Mention the time it takes to do everythingContinuing timing things for myself but don’t time other people unless they request itAsk “Why are you doing it that way?” or “Why aren’t you doing it this (aka “my”) way?Say “walk me through what you’re doing” or just let them do it their way unless it look immediately dangerousRespond with curt “No” or “That won’t’ work” if someone suggests something I don’t agree will workIf it’s not going to be dangerous, let it be. If it’s going to put the other person in a difficult situation say “I’ve done that before and this happened, I did this to fix it, I now do this.” BUT let my partner do whatever they want as long as it’s safe.Obsessively focus on timeLet…

Thursday March 28th - Finish work, fight through normal traffic, pick up Tyler, grab gear from home, wish I had actually packed the night before like I planned, futz about, start driving for the Valley. Hit the 140 gate at 1am, park, sleep, set alarm for 5am. Friday March 29th - Wake up, notice the cold, sleep some more, head into the valley and spend way too long sorting gear into bags at the Grand Majestic Hotel. Begin hiking, - Get to base of Tora Bora, tie rope to yourself and wander over the wet 5th and 4th class slabs in boots to try to find the two bolts on the topo to fix the line to. Intent is to shuttle or haul gear to there and start belaying from that point. Bolts are not found, later Tyler will find the rivets higher up than I thought they would be…

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116233567/epidemia-de-opiaceos#a_116233568 Type:Bigwall, Aid, 8 pitches, Grade VFA:December 2018, DeWeese, Tyler V 5.7 A3-70m rope required.Nailing and Cams.Should not be climbed in winter if large snowpack exists on rim (Avalanche Danger) Wet in early spring Pitch 1: (A2) 160’ -  C1 to 5th class traverse to A2 beaksPitch 2: (A2+) 140’ - A2+ beaks to slab nailingPitch 3: (A2+) 110’ -  Penji/tension left to hooking a flake into Wide overhanging flared crack to thin nailing to nailing and rivet traverse out of roofPitch 4: (A2) 150’ -   Nailing and rivets to beaks then mungey wide cracks to anchorPitch 5: (A2) 225’ -  C1 to headwall then C1 and nailing to free traverse around a pinnacle to beak corner to nailing hooks and wide cams to ledgePitch 6: (A3) 100’ -  Free to C2 to hooking to thin beak tips, belay on face left of crack systemPitch 7: (A1)  205’ -  nailing and…