| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1100 ft, 7 pitches |
| FA: | Steve Bosque, Jens Christ, Kevin DeWeese Feb 2020 |
Description
Mostly thin nailing. Shares part of the final pitch, an anchor, and rap anchors with Resist! and allows for “mix and match” climbing from the P3 anchors should one wish. Standout pitches are P2, P4, and P6. I consider this the best route of the three we’ve put up on that side of the amphitheater.
Pitch 1: 180′ – A2
- Climb up broken ledges before moving left into a left facing system that takes thin nailing.
Pitch 2: 100′ – A3
- Continue up obvious seam splitting the face. Becomes thinner as you get higher.
Pitch 3: 95′ – A2
- Penji right from anchors and climb dual cracks up and over a bulge to the anchors. Nailing and small cams.
Pitch 4: 175′ – A4
- Primarily hooks, small heads, microcams, and small beaks for this pitch. Start from left side of belay, move up then traverse right through hooks, beaks, and heads to reach the rivets that bypass a loose flake (careful as this is right over the anchor) followed by hooking to a left facing system that takes a few microcams and beaks, followed by more hooking and beaks to reach the rivets and hooks to the anchors. This pitch felt very similar to the pitches on Roulette.
Pitch 5: 180′ – A2
- Rivets left to a large ledge, hook or mantel ledge, then follow obvious system passing another ledge up to anchors. Optional gear belay can be made at second ledge.
Pitch 6: 195′ – A3
- Beaks up to stance next to dead tree then rivets followed by penji around the arete, tenuous beaking on a fragile flake reaches a beak system the leads to a perfect C1 crack that leads to a mantel and a couple moves to reach the anchor.
Pitch 7: 90′ – C1 and free
- Step to the right and finish on the final pitch of Resist!.
Descent: (All double rope raps) Rap from final pitch of Resist! to the next anchor for Resist! (skipping the previous belay for Direct Action), Rap to the next anchor for Resist!, Rap to the P4 anchors for Direct Action, Rap to P3 anchors for Direct Action, Rap to P1 anchors for Direct Action, Rap to ground.
Location
Ribbon Falls Amphitheater, West Side, 15′ to the right of the Resist! start. (see photo overlay)
Protection
24 Beaks (8ea #1-3)
5 LAs (1ea #1-5)
2 Angles (1ea 1/2″ & 5/8″)
Nuts 1 set (includ micro)
Cams
– 3ea 0.3″-4.5″
– 2ea 4.5″-6″
– 1ea 8″ (optional)
12 heads (4ea #1-4)
Camhooks
Hooks (2ea, large hook optional)
10 rivet hangers
