Spaghetti Western V 5.6 A3 

Spaghetti Western V 5.6 A3 Mountain Project page for this route with pictures In summer of 2015 Steve Bosque, Josh Mucci and decided to head up to Ribbon Falls to start a new line in the back left corner of the amphitheater (approx 100 feet to the left of the back wall). As the falls raged and I was unable to look up at the route without the falling rain making it impossible to see through my glasses, we prepped our gear and put our faith in the weather report that promised us a break in the rain the next morning. While we waited, we took in the scene: nature at its most majestic with the power of the falls in stark contrast to the wild flowers and delicate bright green frogs that were unfazed by the rain, but frightened by our footsteps in a place that seemed both part…

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Q&A Time!: Washington Column General Beta

Climber writes: Looking for some advice for the South Face of Washington Column: Where should we park? I've heard valet at the Ahwahnee, but is that still an option? Rap or hike for the descent? Like most people climbing it, this will be our first big wall so I'm sure we'll be the annoying slow guys. Does it matter which day of the week we start (End of Sept or sometime in October)? I'm curious if there's a big difference in traffic on the route starting on a weekend vs midweek. Thanks in advance for the help :) Park at the Ahwahnee (Grand Majestic) Hotel parking lot. No need to valet. Get there early and you can snag a space over by the valet parking area which is closer to the trail, otherwise you park about 100 yards further away, whatever. Don't need parking permits, I've left my car there…

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Two New Bigwall FAs!

No time to write up something bigger just yet. Blue Collar V A3 - Hourglass Wall, Yosemite (With Mucci and Bosque) Bigwalls forum post for Blue Collar  Blood & Coin V 5.7 A3 (solo) - Lost Brother, Yosmite Bigwalls forum post for Blood & Coin

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Tricks with beak tips and enchanted heads in closed seams

"Where is the line between chiseling and silver-lining a failed attempt at a beak tip?" So the small seam on my Blood and Coin route ("Sansa's Folly" pitch) were barely there, just small holes in the seam that a #1 pecker would sometimes fit and sometimes not. When it wouldn't fit I decided to rivet rather than chisel a head. Later on after talking to Mucci and rapping past the section over and over I realized that the holes left behind that wouldn't accept the pecker (and fucked up my beak tips) were ready-made chiseled placements for #0 or #1 heads. Maybe not the best for bigger climbers, but for skinny climbers like me, this could be something to prevent unneeded holes without resorting to intentional chiseling of the rock. Thus, one can come across a small seam with the intent to place #1 beak tips, if the beak tip…

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